Paris Fashion Week Men’s A/W 2024 commenced with Pharrell Williams’ second ready-to-wear showcase for Louis Vuitton, a journey that seamlessly transported us from the enchanting streets of Paris to the rugged landscapes of the American West.
The initiation of Paris Fashion Week Men’s A/W 2024 marks the grand finale of men’s fashion month, captivating the heart of the French capital this week. Pharrell Williams took the stage with his highly anticipated second ready-to-wear presentation for Louis Vuitton—a tribute to the American West and its distinctive sartorial narratives. As the week unfolds, the spotlight will shine on Givenchy’s inaugural show post-Matthew M. Williams, a return to Paris for British designer Grace Wales Bonner, and a mysteriously intimate presentation from Rick Owens, shrouded in secrecy.
The runway promises a captivating display, including collections from Jonathan Anderson at Loewe, Kim Jones’ latest Dior Men’s showcase, and presentations from renowned houses such as Paul Smith, Comme des Garçons, Dries Van Noten, Valentino, and Hermès, alongside emerging talents. Within our ongoing report, we unveil the epitome of Paris Fashion Week Men’s A/W 2024, capturing the essence of each unfolding moment.
As Paris Fashion Week Men’s A/W 2024 unfolds, stay attuned for more captivating moments and groundbreaking collections.
Balmain’s Bold Renaissance: Olivier Rousteing Redefines Men’s Fashion
Olivier Rousteing’s Balmain fall men’s collection is a luxurious departure marked by vibrant colors, AI-generated crystal embellishments, and a celebration of freedom in men’s fashion. Drawing inspiration from Pierre Balmain’s archive, Rousteing emphasizes tailoring and personal instincts. The absence of skirts and corsets allows for bold color clashes, lavish embellishments, and unique jewelry. Collaborations with African artists infuse visual vibrancy. Rousteing envisions his models as ‘the new princes of the world,’ showcasing confidence and joy. Despite anticipating criticism, he emphasizes authenticity and individuality, closing with Naomi Campbell in a beige cashmere coat. In a backstage briefing, Rousteing advocates for a world based on beliefs, not trends
Valentino’s Chromatic Exploration: A/W 2024 Menswear Show
Pierpaolo Piccioli has long utilized color to evoke a particular mood. Memorably, he presented an entire women’s collection in a single shade of pink, dubbed ‘Pink PP’ and granted its own Pantone color. For his latest menswear-only show, held at the ornate salons of Paris’ Monnaie de Paris, Piccioli chose a breezy sky blue. This marked Valentino’s return to the menswear calendar, having previously been part of womenswear fashion month. The color choice centered around an exploration of contemporary manhood, particularly the association of blue with the birth of a child. Piccioli contemplated how color can be redefined, noting that traditionally, blue was associated with femininity, with the shift occurring only in this century. He aimed to present blue as something fluid, extending the mood to the clothing itself. Archetypal menswear garments, such as the traditional Italian suit, were reimagined with softer lines or embellished with decorations reminiscent of the house’s haute couture collections.
Elegance Redefined: Hermès Men’s Winter Wardrobe Unveiled
Véronique Nichanian’s approach to Hermès menswear aims to capture a sense of pleasure through clothing. In her over three-decade-long tenure, she consistently seeks to create garments that please both visually and physically. The recent menswear show showcased a range of options for the Hermès man in the upcoming winter, particularly in outerwear. This included a beautiful shearling-lined leather parka and shorter leather peacoats adorned with a collage of utility pockets, playfully described by Hermès as pockets that ‘slip and slide.’ The collection also featured a mix of knitwear, some adorned with painterly prints presented in layers, and riffs on heritage checks, such as Prince of Wales plaid. Seductive accessories included versions of the house’s roomy Haut à Courroies carry-all in textures of smooth barénia and sombrero calfskin. The eveningwear segment showcased tailored jackets and coats in calf hair leather, cut with a narrow, elegant line.
Loewe’s Audacious Fusion: A Celebration of Collaged Realness
Los Angeles-based artist Richard Hawkins provided the inspiration for Jonathan Anderson’s audacious fall collection for Loewe. Set amid a cathedral to masculinity, the runway featured ‘stained-glass window’ screens buzzing with images of the designer’s celebrity devotees. These celebrities, including Jamie Dornan, Josh O’Connor, Omar Apollo, and Manu Rios, filmed themselves preening their reflections on their iPhones. Hawkins’ dizzying collages, capturing fixations on Roman statuary, French decadence, contemporary celebrity culture, and depictions of masculinity, flickered around them. At the end of the runway, a series of Hawkins paintings were placed, referred to by Anderson as the ‘altar.
The theme of collage, described as ‘collaged realness’ by Anderson, ran throughout the collection, exuding an irreverent and youthful mood. Enormous leather cargo pants were paired with baseball sneakers and checkered shirts, while sweatpants, elongated sweaters, and handbags featured Hawkins’ saturated works. Stacked layered garments peeked out from beneath a long overcoat, creating glimpses of colorful fabrics, as if the model were concealing a pile of laundry. An elegant interpretation of the trench coat, with a dropped tie waistline, came in leather, and variations of the pussybow emerged in a mix of textures, alongside fairisle knits. A visual trick involved trousers attached to socks, which were in turn attached to shoes. Anderson explained it as a way of conveying, ‘This is what you’re wearing. You can’t get away from it, it’s like the media.
This concept stemmed from the designer’s observation of modern life becoming a collage, a continuous stream of algorithmic images combining similar to Hawkins’ works. Anderson has been working on these pieces for over 30 years, exploring the idea of iconography and different types of validation. He reflected on the new psychology of how we perceive ourselves to the outside world, acknowledging that it’s uncertain what this means for the future but finding the potential for excitement in it.
Comme des Garçons Homme Plus: Rei Kawakubo’s Tailored Simplicity
Rei Kawakubo’s latest menswear presentation showcased a remarkable simplicity, veering away from the unconventional silhouettes synonymous with the Japanese brand’s womenswear. Instead, the focus was on a study in tailoring, albeit in Kawakubo’s idiosyncratic and improvisational style. Predominantly in shades of white, cream, and ecru – where ‘white is symbolic of prayer,’ as cryptically stated in Kawakubo’s press notes – tailored jackets featured tight nips across the chest, some with double lapels or unique sliced sections. Trousers exhibited a generous volume, ballooning just above the ankles. Embellishments included rows of stitched-on white buttons and glimpses of sequins beneath blazers and knits. The finishing touch came from playful headpieces crafted by Gary Card, using wrapped-up garments from Comme Des Garçons’ ubiquitous ‘Play’ line.
Dior’s Balletic Elegance: Kim Jones’ Homage to Rudolf Nureyev
Kim Jones latest Dior show was inspired by a photograph of Soviet-born ballet dancer Rudolf Nureyev, captured by Jones’ uncle, a former ballet dancer and photographer. Nureyev’s mythologized quest for freedom, documented through images collated in a book placed on attendees’ seats, set the tone for one of Jones’s most impactful collections. Segmented into ready-to-wear and couture, the collection explored the contrasts within the house of Dior, moving from rehearsal room to stage. The masculine interpretation of the ballet dancer’s style featured twisting turbans by Stephen Jones, wide tailored shorts with a masculine ballet pump riff, and lightweight zip-up ribbed knits reminiscent of ballet cardigans. Tailoring exuded lightness and fluidity, drawing inspiration from Yves Saint Laurent’s archival pieces. The couture finale showcased Jones’ theatrical expressions, from an extraordinary beaded white tabard to a kimono-style cape inspired by Nureyev.
Breaking Traditions: Paul Smith’s Modernist Twist on British Tailoring
Paul Smith’s latest collection showcased his signature approach of knowing the rules to break them. Grounded in a deep-rooted knowledge of British tailoring, the collection combined hallmarks of British style with modernist-inspired colors and prints. From WW2 rider jackets to classic overcoats and padded gilets, the pieces featured modernist colors, prints, and motifs, including a ‘Photogram’ print inspired by Man Ray’s ‘Rayograph’ images. The color palette ranged from deep purples, navies, and browns to flashes of lime green and ochre. Smith’s ‘Signature Stripe’ motif adorned layered cardigans and knit sweaters.
Reconstructed Suiting: Junya Watanabe’s Evolution of Everyday Style
Junya Watanabe’s latest collection, titled ‘Reconstructed Suiting,’ featured a multi-generational cast and a focus on everyday elements of men’s style. The garments exhibited hybridity, combining tailored jackets with panels reminiscent of classic trench coats or overlaid with denim jeans and chinos. Coats, held onto the body with a chest panel, signaled a shift towards simplicity. Despite the reductionist mood, Watanabe’s distinctive hallmarks, including patchwork, persisted. Collaborative efforts with brands like Brooks Brothers, Palace, and Carharrt were reimagined through Watanabe’s disruptive lens.
Homme Plissé Issey Miyake: A Symphony of Creativity
Collaborating with the polymathic French artist and designer Ronan Bouroullec, Homme Plissé Issey Miyake showcased a collection inspired by Bouroullec’s vibrant abstract drawings. Titled ‘Immersed in the Wilds of Creativity,’ the collection adorned pleated separates with colorful abstract forms. The freewheeling mood of the collection, with a touch of improvisation, featured scarves draped artfully around models’ bodies, echoing Bouroullec’s daily sketches.
Amiri: Nostalgic Glamour in Hollywood Style
Mike Amiri’s latest collection unfolded amidst grand velvet curtains and a monogrammed carpet, creating an ode to Hollywood’s epic allure. Influenced by the nostalgic glamour of Los Angeles, the collection focused on louche tailoring, from elongated satin blazers to jacquard evening jackets. Crystals adorned the collection, glistening on brooches, shirts, and beanie hats, adding a touch of shimmer to the nostalgic ambiance.
Rick Owens: ’Porterville’ – An Intimate Revelation
Rick Owens chose his Parisian home on Place du Palais Bourbon as the venue for his menswear show, titled ’Porterville.’ Departing from his usual grandeur, the show embraced a setting of “respectful restraint.” The community took center stage, featuring appearances by Steven from Fecal Matter and Gena Marvin. Collaborations with designers Straytukay and Matisse di Maggio added unique elements, showcasing inflatable footwear and recycled tire creations. The collection, crafted in soft alpaca, cashmere, and merino, emanated a mood of envelopment and solace.
Wales Bonner: Elevating American Collegiate Style
Grace Wales Bonner returned to the hallmarks of American collegiate style with a poetic show at Paris’ Conservatoire National des Arts et Métiers. The collection, centered around Howard University, celebrated the institution’s shining lineage. From Howard Crew-adorned sweaters to monogrammed varsity jackets, the collection elegantly clashed college uniforms with moments of refinement. The beautiful black tuxedo, reminiscent of graduation, showcased the designer’s commitment to refinement, extending to her latest Adidas Originals collaboration.
Givenchy: A Return to Sartorial Grandeur
Givenchy made a grand return with its runway show at Hôtel de Caraman on Paris’ Avenue Georges. The historic haute couture salon, where Hubert de Givenchy worked for 36 years, set the stage for a traditional salon presentation. The eclectic collection, designed by an in-house team, explored the concept of ‘gentlemanliness,’ drawing inspiration from Mr. Givenchy’s dual wardrobe personas. Silk headscarves, cat-adorned tops, and sculptural hats added an artistic flair to the collection, leaving the audience in anticipation of the next season’s final bow.
Lemaire: Chic Revelation in Paris
Lemaire’s latest exhibition unfolded within the expansive, white-walled headquarters nestled in Paris’ prestigious Place des Vosges. Ahead of the showcase, the covered courtyard hosted a delightful offering of warm herbal cocktails, a comforting reprieve on this cold, drizzly day. This addition further heightened the intimate ambiance of the presentation, extending an invitation into the tranquil inner sanctum of the brand.
The clothing itself, following a tradition of gradual evolution rather than abrupt transformations, continued to refine Lemaire’s signature aesthetic—marked by discreet, uncomplicated elegance. The show’s attendees, impeccably attired in various tones of Lemaire ecru and off-white, further accentuated this refined sense of style. Christophe Lemaire, in collaboration with Sarah-Linh Tran, expressed that the timing felt right to open the doors to this space, encompassing the brand’s complete operations, including the atelier and workshop. They described the collection as an embodiment of the comfort found at home: embracing, layered ensembles drawing inspiration from dance attire, delicately embracing the body as if a ‘second skin’. Some pieces, in a departure from domesticity, transitioned seamlessly for outdoor wear, such as the sophisticated ‘in-and-out pyjamas’ or outerwear echoing the proportions of a luxurious bathrobe.
Louis Vuitton: A Parisian Ode to the American West
Pharrell Williams transformed Paris’ Bois de Boulogne for Louis Vuitton’s sophomore ready-to-wear spectacle. In his homage to the American cowboy, denim chaps, Western-style shirts, and reimagined workwear took center stage. Collaborating with Timberland, Williams introduced a footwear line, while massive gilded Louis Vuitton trunks added a touch of frontier extravagance. The collection aimed to broaden the vision of the cowboy trope, incorporating a ’creative exchange’ with artists from the Dakota and Lakota nations. The spectacular finale featured a powwow group, Native Voices of Resistance, performing under falling snow, leaving the audience pondering the next chapter in Williams’ Louis Vuitton odyssey.
Before the presentation, Williams highlighted that a key aspect of this collection was to offer a more expansive interpretation of the cowboy archetype (noting that Black and Native American cowboys were among the first in the United States, though they are often excluded from modern depictions of the era). Consequently, the collection featured a ‘creative exchange’ with artists from the Dakota and Lakota nations, who collaborated with Williams to bring his vision to life. This collaboration included a version of the house’s ‘Speedy’ bag, intricately embroidered with a Dakota Flower motif, and ‘Keepalls’ showcasing designs reminiscent of those found on ‘parfleche’—stretched buffalo hides historically adorned by Native American communities. To conclude the show, the powwow group Native Voices of Resistance, dressed in designs envisioned by Dee Jay Two Bears of the Standing Rock Sioux Tribe, performed as a gentle flurry of snow descended from the ceiling, transforming the projected desert on the walls into a pristine white landscape. The show eloquently conveyed Williams’ expansive and dynamic vision for Louis Vuitton, leaving us to ponder where the designer will embark on his next creative journey.