The Balmain Men’s Fall 2024 collection, presented by Olivier Rousteing, is a vibrant and bold expression of luxury in fashion. Rousteing, after nearly 13 years as the creative force behind Balmain, embarked on a new mission with this collection—to bring the same level of craftsmanship and free expression seen in women’s fashion to menswear and to create connections between Paris and Africa, reflecting his own heritage.
The collection itself is described as anything but quiet, featuring a riot of bold colors, intricate prints, and eye-catching embellishments. Rousteing opened the show with a statement piece—an overcoat adorned with pea-size crystals forming a face with expressive features. The face, generated by AI, adds an element of mystery to the collection.
Rousteing sees this return to a dedicated men’s show as a “rebirth,” drawing inspiration from the women’s archive of Pierre Balmain while incorporating his own codes and emphasis on tailoring. The vision for the Balmain man is one of joy, confidence, and freedom, expressed through daring color clashes, lavish embellishments, and bold jewelry.
Rousteing, aware of his reputation for bucking trends, emphasized the importance of being true to oneself rather than conforming to trends. The show concluded with Naomi Campbell, an iconic figure in the fashion world, wearing a beige cashmere coat—an ultimate symbol of quiet luxury, providing a playful contradiction to the overall boldness of the collection.
In summary, Balmain Men’s Fall 2024 is a celebration of opulence, craftsmanship, and individuality, bridging cultural influences and challenging conventional notions of menswear.
Notably, the collection does not include traditionally feminine elements like skirts or corsets. Instead, the freedom enjoyed by women in fashion is translated into bold choices, such as red kisses on shirts and ties, eyes with 3D gold eyelashes on turtlenecks, and people appearing as motifs on garments.
Collaborations with artists Prince Gyasi and Ibby Njoya bring African faces and visual flair to the collection, showcasing tailored jackets, blousons, and accessories. The models, described as daringly dressed dandies, are playfully referred to as “the new princes of the world,” carrying gleaming gold briefcases and wearing shiny brogues with gold-trimmed heels.